Saltwater Aquarium - Terms You Need To Know

Introduction

A saltwater aquarium is easy to develop and maintain if you know what you are doing. Knowing the definition of the words used by Aquarist who operate saltwater aquariums will go a long way toward keeping a successful aquarium.

Saltwater Aquariums

People believe that keeping a saltwater aquarium is difficult, but if you know what you are doing and understand the terms, then it is really not that difficult. Here are some words and their definitions that you must know if you want to be successful at keeping a saltwater aquarium.

Ammonia (NH3)- Chemical produced in your aquarium by plant material and fish waste when they decompose. They are toxic to your fish but are removed by the nitrosomonas bacteria.
Aragonite- This is calcium carbonate that is one of the best substrates for a saltwater aquarium. When the pH in the aquarium falls below 8.2, aragonite will dissolve keeping the pH at the proper level for your aquarium.
Bacteria Starter- Rather than using the natural method to create beneficial bacteria, bacteria starter can be purchased to shorten the development of this bacteria.
Biological Filter- Natural method used in a saltwater aquarium to purify the water in your aquarium.
Chemical Filter- Carbon and filter media used to remove dissolved material from your aquarium.
Mechanical Filter- Removal of waste by filters and/or pads.
Nitrate (NO3)- Last chemical produced in "The Cycle". Least toxic of the chemicals produced by "The Cycle" and is normally removed by water replacement or by the plants in your aquarium.
Nitrite (NO2)- Toxic chemical produced by "The Cycle". Removed from your aquarium by the bacteria Nitrospira.
Nitrospira- Bacteria in your aquarium that consume nitrite that is toxic to your fish.
Nitrogen Cycle - Also known as "The Cycle" that is the break down of fish waste and plant material into ammonia, then nitrite and lastly nitrates.
pH- This is a measure of how acidic or basic the water in your aquarium is. When your pH is above 7.0 the water is basic, below 7.0 the water is acidic. Most saltwater fish will require a basic pH, above 7.0.
Substrate Vacuum- The process of cleaning the debris and waste that collects in the substrate. Normally performed by the use of a siphon.
Specific Gravity- Used to measure the salt in an aquarium by a hydrometer. It is actually a comparison of the mass of a liquid to the same amount of distilled water. For salt water aquarium the ratio should be 1.020 to 1.028.

Understanding these terms will help you succeed at developing and maintaining a successful aquarium.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Tropical Fish Tanks Temperature Guide

ByCharlie Knowles

For people who own a freshwater aquarium, there are lots of things that you should monitor closely. For one, chemistry plays a big role in the growth of tropical fishes. In addition to that, there is also a required temperature range for your fish. With this in mind, it is a must that you ensure that your tropical fish tank is within proper temperature range. By doing so, your fish will not only be the ones to benefit from these, the plants in the fish tank will be benefited as well. In order to have a thriving freshwater fish tank, you must always check if the tank temperature is within range.

What Is The Desired Temperature Range of A Freshwater Tank?

The desired temperature range of fishes would be 72- 79 degrees. However, most freshwater tank owners think that it is best to maintain their fish tanks at a temperature of 77 degrees. You may or may not follow this standard. For better results, you can try asking the sales representative in the fish store. Different breeds of fishes have their own preferred temperature. By asking the store representative, you will be able to know what is the perfect temperature for the fish that you want to take care of.

There are actually some fishes which prefer lower temperature range. For instance, Goldfishes can best thrive on a temperature range of 52 to 65 degrees. Because of this, Goldfishes and tropical fishes cannot live together in one tank.

By ensuring that your is at its required temperature, you will be taking care of a strong and healthy fish. If the temperature in your tank is lower than the required range, your fishes will be stressed out and they will be more susceptible to diseases. On the other hand, exposing them to higher temperatures will deprive them of their oxygen requirement.

However, there are instances that will call for higher tank temperature. For one, fish breeding requires high temperature, preferably a couple of degrees to 79. Another instance that you may need to raise the temperature of your tank is when your fishes develop a certain disease called Ick. This disease usually is due to the different conditions of your tank. It may also be due to the stress that your fishes are experiencing. When treating such diseases, raising your tank temperature to 80 degrees would be a big help.

How To Raise The Temperature of Your Tank?

Any changes in the temperature should be introduced slowly. In the event that you need the temperature should be elevated to 80 degrees, you should allot two days to do so.

Changing the water requires careful process too. If you wish to change out the water, the best thing to do is to out in hot water first then allow it to sit overnight. The next morning, add the new water, little by little. By doing so, the replacement water will be maintained within room temperature.

These are some things you should take note of in maintaining your freshwater fish tank's temperature. For more information about Tropical Fish, please visit our website.

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Feeding Bettas Live Food

One can only hope that by now you've read about the importance of feeding a variety of foods to your betta. And live foods are high on the list of those looking to add such variety. In other words they should be an important part of your betta's diet. Simply because these are the closest menu items you can get that mimic the natural diet these fish eat in their native Asian rice paddies. Which is a healthy thing to mimic. Not an everyday part of their diet mind you. But you can't forgo feeding live foods entirely either.

But this raises all sorts of questions such as:

Where do we get live food?

Can we easily make them a staple of our betta's diet?

Is that even wise?

If so how much and often should we feed live food to them?

These are just some of the questions about feeding live food that we need to answer.

What kind of live food is available?

You will find a wide array of live food to feed them including:

Brine shrimp
Brown worms
Bloodworms
Mosquito larvae
Earth worms
Grindal worms
Wingless fruit flies
Fruit fly larvae

Granted unless you've been into betta fish keeping for a while, some of these may not ring the (dinner) bell. But most can be either purchased or easily raised yourself.

Speaking of which...

Where to buy or get them?

Two options. First, you can purchase live food directly from the pet store. But make sure you're buying from a reputable pet store to avoid the risk of such food carrying bacteria that may be the cause behind some betta fish diseases. Second, you can culture live food yourself. You can actually buy a culture by mail order and start from there.

Backyard garden worms as live food?

Not a good idea. Sorry but the worms you find in your garden or yard are not what we consider as the ideal live food that your betta should feed on. Such worms are most likely to be carrying bacteria that can make them sick. Not to mention they might have some traces of pesticides that can be fatal. So cross them off your list.

Do not overfeed

After you've determined where to get your food stuff from, appropriate feeding is the next challenge. Just remember never to overfeed since this could cause stomach bloat or worse, constipation. Besides, any uneaten food could easily foul the tank water which is another leading cause of premature betta fish death.

How much to feed

Okay so the trick here is to only feed your fish what it can eat in 1-2 minutes. And just that. Anything more than that would be labeled as gluttonous. Knowing as you do that that these guys, although picky eaters at times, will not hesitate to gobble up whatever is laid out for them since they don't know where their next meal is coming from.

How often to feed

It is recommended to feed live food once a day, once a week. This fare should never be your fish's main diet since again feeding live food is not without its downsides.

How to feed

Another trick. Since bettas usually dine near the surface of the water you just don't toss grindal or blood worms into the tank and go about your business. Because what if your finny friend didn't take note that you actually dropped the food in? In that case it might just settle on the bottom of the tank uneaten, lost forever. And uneaten food equals dirty water. And dirty water often equates to unwanted betta fish diseases. Therefore, be sure to remove any uneaten food, live or otherwise. Also, if you're handling worms, some would want you to be sure to rinse them thoroughly to clean them up before serving.

Storing the food

Again, don't be too eager to feed everything you have to your betta. Luckily you can store them in the refrigerator for a week. Maybe longer.

Some betta fish owners would rather not feed live foods because done wrong, they can be a way to expose your fish to disease. However feeding like this does serve a purpose. And that purpose is to provide a complete and balanced nutrition for your pet. Just make sure you're handling live food carefully and you're getting it from a reliable source. Do that and your betta should be swimming healthily and enjoying life for years to come.

For more information about topics like what do betta fish eat, diseases they are prone to as well as other helpful info on betta fish care why not visit http://www.better-bettas.com? You'll find this leading site is loaded with useful tips, helpful advice and must-have resources covering caring for your betta splendens.

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Buying Aquarium Heaters - 4 Great Tips

Fish have long been a favorite pet for people around the world, and it's not surprising why. They are low maintenance in comparison to other animals, and cheap to take care of depending upon what kind of fish you have. However, there are going to be times when it's necessary to purchase some routine items like aquarium heaters, and this often leaves a lot of people confused.

People are unsure if they need a specific brand, or just how much quality aquarium heaters cost. Don't worry though, by using the following tips you can streamline the entire buying process.

1) Decide On What You Need

The first thing you're going to need to do is to write down a list of things you're going to need in an aquarium heater. Do your fish require a specific temperature, and how easy is the cleanup going to be? Does your tank size require multiple aquarium heaters? Questions like these are going to make your search easier, and keep your fish alive.

So take a sheet of paper, and write down whatever questions you have about what kind of aquarium heater you need. If you don't know the answers that's ok, but knowing the questions is the key to finding the answers you need.

2) Define A Budget

Now that you know what you're going to need, it's time to define the budget you will adhere to. Setting a budget does more than just save you money; it forces you to become creative. Your brain enters problem solving mode, and now you're going to be willing to do more research, and look for deals you might not have noticed before.

If you're a little unsure of exactly how much aquarium heaters cost, then it's ok to use a number you feel comfortable with. Eventually, after you begin browsing through various heaters, you can modify your budget accordingly.

3) Do Your Research

Unless you're a fish expert, it's a good bet you now have some questions that need answering. The best place to find those answers is going to be among fish enthusiasts. Use a Google search to find an online forum of other fish owners, and post your questions there.

Doing this will not only get you answers to whatever questions you have, it will most likely produce the best recommendations to meet your budget.

Remember when asking for a community's help to be respectful, and thank whoever takes the time to help you.

4) Make Your Final Decision

Now that you've taken the time to browse through available aquarium heaters, it's a good bet you still have a few possible choices. To help make your final decision, you need to take a look at the return policy on the various heaters.

There is always a chance, for some reason, that your aquarium heater will get damaged in transit, or not perform as advertised. If that happens, then you want a company with a good return policy.

The simple truth is buying an aquarium heater doesn't have to be hard, and by following the above tips you will find out for yourself just how easy it can be.

Earl L. White - Owner Tails Pet Supply
Referred by Wagging "Tails" Everywhere
http://www.tailspetsupply.com - Since 2009 we have been serving the pet enthusiast with quality products for all your pets.

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All You Need to Know About Betta Fish Medication

Planning to set up a betta fish tank? If so by know you've probably done enough homework about what you should do and what materials you should buy to set up just the perfect betta fish tank. One any self-respecting betta can't help but love.

Still no matter how perfectly your tank has been built, it doesn't warrant you the possibility of your betta catching dreaded diseases. Especially if you're not really that religious in maintaining an optimum betta tank environment. And where in such case when you can't even commit to taking good care of your betta, then you shouldn't keep a tank in the first place. Still, if you are so firm about keeping one, then at least you should equip yourself with the knowledge about betta fish medication.

Now you might wonder why learn about medication when your betta is not sick in the first place. Besides you can just as easily run into any pet store once something seems amiss, can't you? Or better yet, order them online. Right? Wrong. You see no matter how hard you try to keep the tank system at its best, you'll never know what can happen next. And the sad thing is a lot of betta fish owners only learn that their fish are sick when it's already too late for them to be cured. Worse is they misdiagnose the disease or overmedicate at times. So wouldn't it be better to be proactive and vigilant so you come prepared for whatever illness that may occur?

Okay so first things first. Along with completing the set up of your tank, you also have to secure yourself a betta fish first aid kit. So what should be found in a well-equipped fish medicine cabinet.

For starters, antibiotics like tetracycline, ampicillin, and kanamycin for bacterial infections.

Then you might want to have some Maracin 1 and Maracin 2 for fungal and bacterial infections handy.

Jungle fungus eliminator is good for fungal infections.

Plus maybe some anti-parasite pellets for those pesky parasitic infections that show up from time to time.

Still, what good would these medications do if you can't even tell whether your fish is sick or not? So you have to be very vigilant in looking for these signs telling you that your betta could be sick:

- Acts lethargic.
- Has white spots on their body.
- Displays a bloated tummy.
- One or both eyes are swollen.
- Has raised scales.
- Shows a dull or pale color.
- Has tattered fins or tail, brown spots on the fins or tail.
- Swims abnormally.
- Seems to have fallen in love with the bottom of the tank.

Any or some of these could be raising a red flag the betta is sick. So the next challenge is to correctly diagnose the disease the fish is suffering from. Which is just common sense so you'd know what type of medication should be given then, right?Unfortunately we'll have to save that diagnosis discussion for another time perhaps.

This is just an overview of what you're getting yourself into when taking care of a betta fish should some disease strike. Still this is not something you should fear as long as you know what medication should be given and when to your ailing pet. And so long as you make sure you read the instructions carefully to avoid overmedicating your betta which in the end could do more harm than good.

For a comprehensive look at the expected betta fish life span, why not visit http://www.better-bettas.com? There you can get answers to your questions about keeping these lovely pets. Don't be stuck with betta envy. Visit Better-Bettas.com today.

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Saltwater Aquarium - How To Keep Your Fish Healthy

Introduction

If you own a saltwater aquarium, your main goal is to keep your fish healthy. There are many things you can do to keep your fish smiling and in good health. Remember that these fish you purchased came out of the wild where mother nature took care of them and now it is your turn to step up and take mother natures place.

So how do you keep your fish healthy? Here are some suggestions.

Causes Of Sickness

The main cause of illness in fish is stress. So the best thing you can do to keep your fish happy and healthy is to prevent them from becoming stressed. Here are some things you can do to prevent stressing your fish.

Newbie

When you bring your saltwater fish home from the store you need to understand what they have been through. They were removed from their natural habitat in the ocean, flown to a store in a bag and a box and then sold to you.

When you bring your new fish home, it will be the first time in days they will be able to settle down. There is no need to stress them out further by dumping them in a tank with strangers. Place your newbie in a quarantine tank for a few days to allow it to settle down and get comfortable with the new surroundings.

Placing the quarantine tank next to main saltwater aquarium will help acclimate your new fish to the final stop.

Water Quality

Maintaining proper water quality is important to prevent your fish from becoming stressed out. Measure the quality of water frequently to ensure the nitrates, pH, specific gravity and temperature are in the right range for your fish.

Less frequently measure to ensure that your bacteria are doing their job by keeping ammonia and nitrites at very low levels, preferably at zero ppm.

Over Crowding

If you put to many fish in your aquarium will also stress your fish. As a rule of thumb only have 1/2 inch of adult fish for each gallon of water in your aquarium.

Anything more than this will stress your fish. When purchasing your fish, know what size they will grow to as adults so you can plan ahead.

Feeding

Your fish can also become stressed if you feed them the wrong foods. Even overfeeding your fish can stress them out. Your water quality can also go bad if you over feed them. Feed your fish once a day and only give them what they can eat in two minutes.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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A Beautiful Aquarium - Start With Fish That Are Easy to Take Care Of

It can be so disappointing to spend 3 days setting up a beautiful aquarium, letting it adjust and settle for a week before finally going shopping for your very first fish. Going into the store, the temptation is there to buy one of each variety and species in the shop! Time and again, I would spend hours choosing the most beautiful and delicate fish, only to find this fish dead in only two days. Thinking this may have just been a fluke or a sick fish to begin with, I promptly purchased another one. Then it gets flushed as well. With the help of a friend, I went from a complete failure to raising different species of fish and live foods for my fish!

To be successful at maintaining an aquarium, it is important to know which fish species are most suited to the beginner hobbyist. Starting this hobby with hardy freshwater aquarium fish to care for fish is the first step.. Then you can move on the more complicated species. There are so many species of fish to choose from. You need to start with the basics and select hardy freshwater aquarium fish. Keeping a Goldfish in a bowl is not an easy keeper. You need to know which fish are hardy, which ones are "community" dwellers, those that are aggressive (and might eat their tank mates over night!), making sure that all tank mates will be happy at a certain temperature range and how to keep up the water temperatures at the proper level.

I got so frustrated. I had the water balance tested. I went through the entire set-up process again and finally I threw my hands up in total defeat and disgust. My friend had 2 gorgeous tanks, one with 12 colorful freshwater tropical fish and one with saltwater fish (a starfish, live coral, a puffer and 3 seahorses). She did eventually take pity on my plight and offered to help me get started. She taught me to start with Baby Steps, the key with beginning this incredible hobby. It was smooth sailing from then on! My favorite fish was a big Oscar fish in a 29 gallon tank. He lived all alone and re-decorated his environment to his heart's content. He grew to about 9 inches long.

As I became more knowledgeable, I have successfully raised back Mollies, fancy guppies, Siamese Fighting fish, seahorses, brine shrimp and meal-worms.The meal-worms were for the fish and our flock of chickens.

I wanted a beautiful aquarium! After seeing me try and fail, a friend finally helped me learn how to keep fish successfully. A gorgeous tank from the beginning is a rare accomplishment. Freshwater Aquariums Today, focuses on helping beginners select the right fish, with tips on plants, ornaments, aquariums and fish reviews.

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Saltwater Aquarium - Why Do Saltwater Aquarium Fish Get Sick?

Introduction

Saltwater aquariums are a real pleasure to have. But every now and then your fish may get sick. So what are some of the reasons your fish get sick and what can you do about it?

High Ammonia and Nitrite Levels

When you develop a new aquarium you will want it to go through a nitrogen cycle to create beneficial bacteria to help keep ammonia and nitrite levels down. At the start of this cycle your ammonia and nitrite levels will spike, but will then go down to zero because of the creation of good bacteria.

But even after you have established the beneficial bacteria, you could have high levels of ammonia and nitrites caused by to many new fish, medications, decaying dead fish or even over feeding.

High levels of ammonia and nitrites can cause your fish to become sick or even die. If you have high levels of ammonia and nitrites, you will need to reduce them by removing the cause of the high ammonia and nitrites and perform a water replacement of at least 25%.

Continue to do this until the good bacteria catch up and can keep the ammonia and nitrites concentrations at zero ppm.

Stress From Other Fish

Other fish in your display aquarium may become bullies and harass or chase your other fish. This will cause the harassed fish to become stressed. The condition of being stressed can lead to your fish becoming sick.

If one of your fish is being harassed or chased, then remove one of these fish from the aquarium.

pH

Saltwater aquariums should always have a pH of between 8.2 to 8.4. pH levels of less than 8.1 or higher than 8.5 can cause your fish to become sick. If your pH is out of specifications, then add a buffer to either raise the pH or lower it to get it back into the proper range.

The best way to adjust the pH in a saltwater aquarium is to add the pH buffer to your replacement water.

Specific Gravity

For saltwater aquariums, you will want to keep the specific gravity between 1.020 and 1.025. If it is out of this range it means your salt content is not the proper amount for your fish. To get the specific gravity in the proper range, either add salt or remove and add pure water to your aquarium.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Saltwater Fish - Some Saltwater Fish For Your Aquarium

Introduction

A saltwater aquarium adds lots of beauty to any home or office. What really makes the aquarium is the fish you choose. Unlike freshwater aquarium fish, saltwater fish are much more colorful.

Here are a few of my favorite saltwater fish.

Angelfish

These are considered one of the most beautiful saltwater aquarium fish that there is because of their very bright colors and markings. These fish are very territorial, so if you have an aquarium that is less than 75-gallons, it is best to only have one.

These fish will eat an omnivorous diet and dwarf Angelfish will grow to about four inches.

Tangs

These are also known as surgeionfish because of the spine down both sides of their body that ends just before their tail. They use these spines to defend themselves and their territories. They are considered community fish but will be aggressive toward other Tangs or fish that that have similar shapes and colors. For their diet they are considered herbivores.

Damselfish

Dameselfish have very vibrant colors and are very hardy, so they are good for first time saltwater aquarium owners. These fish are very territorial and the larger ones will bully and nip the smaller Damselfish. They are omnivorous and will eat most prepared foods.

Clownfish

These are very interesting fish. When you buy two small Clownfish they will both be males. But as they grow, the larger and more aggressive Clownfish will turn into a female. There are several different species of Clownfish and the different species should not be placed in the same tank together. Clownfish of the same species can be placed together in pairs. They are considered omnivorous.

Gobies

Gobies make good starter fish since they are very hardy and really easy to maintain. Most species of Gobies prefer to be the only one in the tank. They are small fish and will usually only grow to a size of about three inches. They are classified as both carnivorous and omnivorous.

Wrasse

If you want a great fish for your saltwater aquarium a Wrasse would be a good addition. They have very bright colors and have very long bodies. If you do get one or two, you will need to provide them with hiding places. You may actually see them burrowing into the sand. They are classified as carnivores.

Conclusion

There are many saltwater fish you can put in your saltwater aquarium. The ones I have listed here are my favorite ones.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Saltwater Aquariums - Protein Skimmers For Saltwater Aquariums

Introduction

A saltwater aquarium is a neat addition to the home or office. But you will need to recreate the conditions of the ocean to have a successful and healthy aquarium. One way to create this condition is to have a protein skimmer or foam fractionator.

Why I Need Protein Skimmer

Nature works at keeping the ocean clean by creating tides to constantly replace the dirty water with cleaner water. Plus the action of the waves produces foam that removes ocean contaminants. Your saltwater aquarium is a microcosm of the ocean and needs to create the same conditions that the ocean does.

The protein skimmer will create this condition for you. This devise will remove unhealthy contaminants such as dissolved organic compounds and other material from your aquarium.

This material comes from fish waste, bacteria, uneaten food and decomposing matter such as dead plants. If this material is left in your aquarium they will break down to toxic ammonia and nitrites and will eventually turn into nitrates.

How A Protein Skimmer Works

The protein skimmer creates a condition similar to the ocean to remove the unwanted material. The skimmer will produce bubbles that attract waste material such as dissolved organics. As the bubbles rise in the column they will create foam.

This foam is just like the foam you see on the surface of the ocean or the foam that is washed up on the beach. This foam created in the protein skimmer is collected in a collection cup preventing it from returning to your aquarium.

The waste that is captured in the collection cup is called skimmate and needs to be removed periodically to keep the skimmer operating efficiently.

Which One To Buy

There are several different designs of protein skimmers you can choose from. Whichever design you choose ensure the bubbles they create are small. Smaller bubbles rise to the surface slower and have a larger surface area. This allows for a better capture of waste material than you would receive with larger bubbles that rise faster and have a lower surface area.

Also make sure the skimmer you select will handle the volume in your tank. It is better to have one that is designed for a larger tank than one for a smaller tank. This will ensure optimum efficiency and less maintenance.

Conclusion

A protein skimmer is a necessary part for your saltwater aquarium. It will keep you aquarium and fish healthy and happy by removing wastes that can decompose to toxic chemicals such as ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Saltwater Aquarium - How To Control Algae With Lighting In Your Saltwater Aquarium

Introduction

Algae is important to filtering the ocean by absorbing nutrients and trace metals. But if it gets out of control in your aquarium it can turn it into a green soggy mess. If you allow sunlight on your aquarium or you do not do the proper maintenance on your aquarium lighting you can develop severe cases of algae bloom.

Algae

Land plants are believed to have evolved from algae and are probably the most important element needed to sustain life because they produce up to 70 to 80 percent of the oxygen we breathe.

But if you allow algae to get out of control in your saltwater aquarium, it can turn an immaculate aquarium into a soggy mess. Algae can grow on the sides of your aquarium, decorations, live rock, substrate and any where else it can get a hold of inside your aquarium.

So if you are dealing with algae in your aquarium look at the lighting you are providing your aquarium, this may be the source of your algae problems.

Sunlight

If you have placed your aquarium near a window, the sunlight coming in may be the source of your algae blooms. Look at the location of your aquarium and if it is next to a window you may need to move it.

Even if you have a curtains or shades on your windows it may not be enough to prevent sunlight from entering your aquarium producing algae. Even if you think they are preventing sunlight from entering your aquarium, you may unintentionally leave the blinds or curtains open allowing for enough sunlight to enter creating an algae bloom.

Artificial Lighting

The artificial lighting you provide your saltwater aquarium to grow your coral and plants can also cause algae blooms. As you're light bulbs age, the color spectrum they provide will drop into the range needed for algae growth.

There are two methods you can use to replace your light bulbs before they drop into the spectrum needed to produce algae.

Spectrograph- You can purchase a spectrograph to measure the color spectrum being emitted from your aquarium lighting. You can purchase a cheap one that is unreliable or more expensive ones that can cost you an arm and a leg.
Preventive Maintenance- The best way to keep your lighting spectrum in the proper range is to do what companies do to keep their equipment running properly, preventive maintenance. This means to change out the light bulb before it falls into the unacceptable color spectrum. It is recommended that you change out your light bulbs every eight to ten months to keep them in the proper lighting spectrum.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Saltwater Aquariums - Is It Work Or Pleasure In Having A Saltwater Aquarium

Introduction

My saltwater aquarium provides me with a lot of relief and lots of pleasure. There is some work involved in keeping one of these aquariums however, the pleasure you receive far out ways the work you need to do keep a successful aquarium.

I was a bit leery about installing a saltwater aquarium in my office because of the work involved, but once I installed mine, I found the work was really minimal.

Saltwater Aquarium Maintenance

I have a 75-gallon aquarium and was worried about the amount of work involved in keeping a healthy aquarium. I was surprised at how easy it was to keep this type of aquarium and how little work was really involved in keeping a saltwater aquarium. In fact I spend only about an hour a week in keeping my aquarium and fish healthy.

Most of that hour I spend on my aquarium is used in removing debris and water. The rest of the time is spent on testing the water quality and feeding my fish.

Pleasures Of A Saltwater Aquarium

I have placed my aquarium in my office where I spend most of my time and have found that I receive a lot of pleasure and relief from having my aquarium there. Here is why I like my aquarium in my office:

Relaxing - I found that before I put the aquarium in my office I was often stressed out at the end of the day. But after I placed the tank in my office, I can pause from my work and relax and just watch the fish. Watching the fish swim around the aquarium is very relaxing for me. It is also probably the reason you will find them in dentists waiting rooms.

Pets -I consider my fish as pets. I cannot take them for a walk, but I know where they are all the time. I have even named them. Though they may look a like, if they are of the same species, there is small distinguishing marks on them that makes them individuals and thus can be named.

Beauty - An aquarium will add beauty to any room you put it in. My office was improved a 100% when I added the aquarium to my office.

Conclusion

If you are hesitant about putting in a saltwater aquarium because of the work involved, don't be. The work is really minimal compared to the pleasure and enjoyment you receive from it.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Do I Need A Refugium For My Saltwater Aquarium

Why A Refugium

A refugium is defined as a stable place where endangered species can live even when the surrounding environments are changing. For the Aquarist, refugium means a refuge that shares the same water as the display aquarium but is isolated from the rest of the aquarium.

A well-designed refugium provides many advantages for your main aquarium. The macro algae and sand that is in your refugium will become natural filters for your display aquarium by reducing phosphates and nitrates. By reducing these contaminants from your aquarium, you will help eliminate the growth of unwanted algae in your tank.

The other advantage to having a refugium is that the lighting you put in will be on the opposite cycle as the light in your main aquarium, this will help stabilize the oxygen and pH levels in your aquarium.

The display light will be on during the day and off at night. When the light goes out carbon dioxide (CO2) levels will rise because photosynthesis is no longer occurring. CO2 is an acid and will lower the pH in your aquarium. With the refugium light on at night, the plants you have in your refugium will use the CO2, make oxygen and stabilize the pH.

Another benefit for having a refugium is that since it is a little environment separate from your display aquarium you can put in it small crustaceans such as copepods and amphipod. These can be netted to supply a food source for your fish or they can migrate naturally to the display tank via the connection lines. For this reason predator fish should not be placed in a refugium or they will eat your entire food source.

Refugium Types

There are many different types of refugiums to choose from. You can choose from those that hang from the side into the tank, stand-alone, built-in or even internal refugium.

What To Put In A Refugium

Besides sand, micro algae and crustaceans, you will also want to put in your refugium aquatic life that will not do well in the company of more aggressive fish. Many Aquarists will put in such aquatic life as seahorses, some shrimp and small fish.

Conclusion

Having a refugium as part of your display aquarium provides many benefits for you and your fish. It keeps oxygen and pH levels stable and reduces the amount of algae in your aquarium. A refugium makes the work involved in keeping a saltwater or reef aquarium easier.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Different Sinking Fish Food for Discus

ByHarry Koots

Beautiful and bright colored discus fish are very popular among novice as well as expert fish breeders. Both cultivated and local varieties of the fish are in great demand everywhere. They are also very easy to maintain, however like any other pet in your home the right discus food diet plays an important role in the well-being of the fish.

There are different types of discus fish foods, which mainly contains three categories:

Dry food, frozen food and live discus food. These can be further classified as sinking food, slow sinking food and floating fish food. Since discus, fish are mostly mid water feeders slow sinking fish food for discus is most preferred.

Different types of sinking fish food for discus are:

Flakes: Flakes come under the category of top floating food but if you pinch them a big before feeding they sink down.

Pellets: Small and mostly round shaped, pellets are both sinking and floating. Giving dry pellets to fish can cause them to bloat therefore soak them in water for a little while before feeding.

Granules: These are smaller forms of pellets are can be fed in the same way you feed the pellets.

Wafers and tablets: These are one of the most popular forms of sinking fish food for discus. They have a very well balanced ingredient content. Although they sink rapidly but since they are small enough to be eaten in one bite the fish eat them up quickly. Also they don't cloud the water.

Gels: These are preprocessed slow sinking food for fish. These than be thawed, then mixed with homemade food or other frozen food and then frozen again to feed the fish. They can be used to give your fish a varied diet.

Slow sinking discus fish food is preferred because then the fish can reach it easily. If the fish sinks too fast then they will not be able to reach it and it will rot in the bottom and can harm the fish. Discus fish follow a routine and therefore you have to keep in mind to feed them at fixed times every day.

Also, since discus fish like to follow a routine therefore feed them at regular intervals and give small feedings at a time. They like to eat frequently and hence if you give them feed only once or twice a day, it will go waste and the fish will starve. Any variation from the routine will make them confused and disrupt their system.

Harry Koots is an experienced Aquarius and he has been teaching people on how to successfully breed Discus.

Since it is not a very easy fish to keep, and breeding them in aquariums is even harder. Harry will teach you how to keep them in an aquarium that is large enough for them, giving them high quality food etcetera.

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Setting Up Your Own Aquarium

Planning on setting up your new aquarium? Then this is the right place for you to learn more on how to set it up. Having fishes as pets can have therapeutic benefits and they are also easy to look after. You do not have to walk them, they wouldn't scratch you or make noise and feeding them is really easy. Watching the fishes swim around in their aquariums can actually prove to be a good stress reliever. The best part about owning fishes is that you can design their home environment according to your own likes and dislikes. After you decorated it, the aquarium can definitely improve the look of your room.

Before you get excited to design your aquarium, you first need to choose the aquarium. The larger the aquarium is the better defense it would have against contamination. You should consider the available space you have to place the aquarium and also your budget as larger aquariums are bound to be more expensive. The shape also is crucial in maintaining a stable cycle for your aquarium. If you have an aquarium that is big but has a small open surface area, the quality of the water would not be that good. A larger surface would allow better surface gas exchange which would improve the quality of the water. Other equipment that you would want to install in your aquarium are filters to cleanse the water, heaters to maintain the right temperature, air pumps to ensure that there is enough oxygen in the tank and decorations to make your aquarium look attractive.

Before anything else, you might want to paste a background at the back of the tank to make the fish stand out and make the aquarium look more pleasing. If the artist in you wants to draw your own background, go ahead and experiment! A definite must is cleaning your tank before using it. Even if it is brand new or you think it is clean, you must still wash it as there might be some bacteria that you might not be able to see. Also, the most important thing that you must consider before you start putting water, fishes and decorations into the tank is the type of fishes you are going to house. Fresh water fishes require different conditions as compared to tropical fishes. Once you made your decision, you can put the appropriate water into the tank.

To decorate the aquarium, you can let your imagination take over and design it in any way you want. Underwater plants, pebbles, decorative items and sand might be some items you could decorate the tank with. You can choose any theme for your aquarium and the best part is that you can even change it whenever you want to. Just make sure the fishes are in a safe and healthy environment. The materials that you put in should be non-toxic to avoid contamination of the water. The stand that you place your aquarium upon should be strong and sturdy to be able to support the weight of the tank.

Putting plants in the tank can be pretty tricky as you must maintain a healthy amount of light for the plants to photosynthesize and at the same time ensure that the tanks does not get too warm to maintain suitable conditions for the fishes. Filters and pumps are key equipments to ensure that the tank has good quality water to house the fishes. The pumps ensure that there is enough oxygen while the filters remove any unwanted debris and wastes from the water.

Whatever you do, always make sure that the living environment of the fishes is not at stake. Maintain a clean and healthy environment for your beloved swimming pets.

To learn more on how to set up your own aquarium or find suppliers for equipments for your aquarium, you can visit us at thegreenbook.com

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Difference Between A Display Tank and Quarantine Tank

Introduction

If you have a saltwater aquarium or even a freshwater aquarium, you will need to establish a quarantine tank. Here are some of the differences between your display tank and a quarantine tank.

Why A Quarantine Tank

There are several reasons why you will need to establish a quarantine tank for your freshwater or saltwater aquarium:

New Fish - You will want to put the new fish you bring home in a quarantine tank to ensure it is not sick and possibly spread disease to your already established fish. Plus if you have the tank next to your display tank it will introduce your new fish to the established fish. The Pros recommend that you keep our new fish here for at least three weeks.
Hospital Tank - At times you may develop sick fish that will need to be isolated to be treated and prevent the spread of disease to other fish. Plus you will be able to treat your fish without having to treat the fish that are not sick. It can also be a place for injured fish to recover.
Aggressive Fish - This tank is also a good place to put fish that are aggressive till you decide what to do with them.

Equipment Needed For A Quarantine Tank

The equipment needed for such a tank is basically the same that you need for a display tank. You will need decorations, a heater, filter, net, hydrometer, thermometer, etc. But what is different is the following:

Tank Size - Of course if you have a large aquarium your quarantine tank will be smaller, from 10 to 29 gallons. If you have large fish you will need a larger tank. Select a size that is appropriate for you.
Substrate - Substrate that you put in your tank will absorb medicines so the dose of medicine may need to be larger. For example, crushed coral or aragonite will absorb medications. Look for substrate that will not absorb the medicines you will use.
Temperature - The temperature should be higher than your display tank. Higher temperatures will improve the recovery time of your fish.

The water quality should be the same as you have in your display tank to prevent shocking your sick or injured fish. Plus the new fish you bring home will become acclimated to the environment in the display tank.

Conclusion

Your quarantine tank is just like your display tank except it is smaller, with little or no substrate and should be maintained at a higher temperature.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Saltwater Aquariums - What You Need To Know

Introduction

If you are thinking about installing a saltwater aquarium for the first time you need to do some research. Having a successful aquarium requires you to do your homework before you even start to purchase the equipment needed for your aquarium.

Learning Saltwater Aquarium Basics

A saltwater aquarium will be difficult for you to operate if you do not do your homework. In fact you will probably join over 90% of the other people who fail within a month of trying to develop a saltwater or freshwater aquarium.

To prevent failure do your research and learn from successful Aquarist who have already traveled down the road you are embarking on.

Some of the topics you will need to learn about is what type of equipment is needed, how to maintain water quality and what type of fish will you be keeping as your pets.

Equipment Needed

Here is some of the equipment you will need to learn about:

Aquarium Tank- Believe it or not you will need to decide what type of aquarium you will want, acrylic or glass. Plus you will need to learn where is the best place to install it, how to install it and the support it will need.
Substrate- If you do not know what this means then you will also need to learn the terms, but substrate is the material at the bottom of your tank. There are several types of substrate you can select from, research them and pick the best one for you.
Filters and Heaters- There are different types of filters and heaters you can select, do your homework and pick the best one. Now is not the time to go cheap, the better the equipment in your aquarium the fewer problems you will have.

Water Quality

One of the main items in maintaining an aquarium is keeping the correct water quality. The main cause of people failing to keep a successful aquarium is maintaining the quality of the water at the right specifications for your fish.

Chemistry- You will need to learn about the effects of ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, pH, temperature and salinity have on your fish. Plus learning about how to keep chemistry in the proper range for your fish is important.
Algae- One of the big items that will make your pristine aquariums look like a slum is to allow algae to take over. Take the time to learn about algae and how to control it.

Fish

Once you understand the above concepts then you can start thinking about the fish you will want. Saltwater fish are much more colorful than freshwater fish, but you will need to ensure they are compatible.

Compatibility- Ensure your fish fall within the same classification. There is community, semi-aggressive and aggressive fish that should not be mixed together.
Water Specifications- Ensure that the fish you select can live in the same water pH and temperature.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Aquariums - Lessons I Learned On Keeping An Aquarium

Introduction

If you are going to be a successful Aquarist you will need to do your research before your set up your first tank. But as with all research, there are some things you will have to learn on your own. Here is what I learned on my own that I did not receive from my research.

Tank Size

If you are looking to start an aquarium you are probably thinking about starting small with a 10-gallon tank. I thought this way at first, but decided on a 75-gallon tank instead. I found out latter that starting big was the right decision.

The reason I suggest a larger tank is that a large tank can absorb changes in water chemistry changes better than a smaller tank. For example, under the same conditions pH changes are less drastic in a large tank than in a small tank. This allows for less stress on your fish.

Cleaning

I read about ensuring you clean the debris from your tank and replace at least 10% of the water weekly. But one thing I learned on my own was to also clean the aquarium glass top at least weekly.

I did not do this at first but only cleaned it when algae built up on it. Waiting for algae to build up on the glass top makes cleaning very difficult. I now clean it at least weekly, before the algae build up.

Maintenance

Lots of people hesitate about installing an aquarium in their home or office because of the work involved in maintaining it. I was also a member of this camp.

What I actually found there is a lot less work to keep a successful aquarium than I thought. I found I spend less than an hour a week in maintaining my aquarium. That time includes cleaning the debris and water replacement.

Snails

I had learned I needed to wash anything I put in my tank to prevent contaminating the water and killing my fish. I did the same thing with my live plants but it was only a rinsing.

I found that just rinsing the plants is not enough. I now have Ramshorn snails in my aquarium because I just rinsed my plants and did not wash them thoroughly before putting them in my aquarium.

I really did not want these in my aquarium, but they have turned out not to be the pest I thought they would be. They eat the algae and my Gourami snack on them which keeps them in check so they do not overrun my tank.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Aquarium Accessories Can Enhance Fish Tank Appearance

ByArvel Maurice

When you purchase an aquarium, it is more than just a place to put a fish. It is important that you choose the right set of accessories and by doing so, you can turn it into a fine piece of decoration. To shop for aquarium accessories, it is recommended that you seek assistance of the internet. There are many websites which target this niche and compete against themselves to get an edge. Make sure that you visit different websites and read their reviews in order to find a trustworthy website for purchasing these accessories. Also, take this opportunity to compare the prices offered by different manufacturers. Eventually, you will find a website which offers the best products at economical prices.

The first aspect you will want to consider is the type of water and the types of fish to include in it. You can find many accessories which will be compatible with a particular type of water and not with another. Some of the accessories can also prove to be harmful for the fish. You will be required to put in considerable amount of thought to shop for aquarium accessories. Aquarium air pumps are considered essential components, as they are responsible for aerating the water. The bubbles which are released from the pump move to the surface, thus generating oxygen for the survival of fish. The air pumps vary greatly in size, shape and design. You can choose aquarium pumps as per the depth of your fish tank.

As a fish tank owner, it becomes your responsibility to maintain it on a regular basis to ensure the longevity. Another essential element of a good fish tank is proper lighting to provide a healthy environment to the fish as well as enhance their mood. You have different options to choose from among aquarium lighting such as fluorescent lights, LED lights, etc. These lights also have the capability for dimming. You do not have to reduce the amount of time the light is on, but reduce the intensity as per demanded. Another among the aquarium accessories which can be installed in the tank is protein skimmers. They are usually used in sea water aquariums. Since the fishes are contained in the fish tank, they become more sensitive and it becomes important to keep aquariums clean. This is where the skimmers play their part.

With the advancement in technology, many other aquarium accessories have been launched in the market and are made available online. All you have to do is choose the right website and purchase the necessary products as per the requirement of your fish tank. The fishes have to rely on sunlight and water to offer them warmth for survival. By investing in the right set of accessories, you will be able to maintain the longevity of the fishes. It is also recommended that you clean the fish tank on a regular basis and replace water with fresh one. Go online today and purchase the accessories at an economical price. You will not regret making this investment.

Arvel Maurice is the author of this article on Aquarium Supplies.
Find more information, about Dosing Pumps here

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The Top Seven Ways To Control Algae In A Freshwater Aquarium

A beautiful aquarium can quickly change into an unsightly mess when green algae takes over. Algae is sneaky; it creeps throughout your tanks while slowly, innocently, covering everything inside your aquarium. Then, your friends stop by for a visit and they accuse you of neglecting your poor little fish. Let's look at the best ways to control this!

Change the Water - Regular water changes are necessary to keep fish healthy. During water changes use a gravel vacuum to remove some of the water while you suck out fish waste and excess food from the gravel. Since excess waste is converted by bacteria into Nitrates and Nitrates are a food for alga, vacuuming the gravel removes one of its sources of food. Also, vacuuming the gravel will physically remove some the unsightly mess by turning the gravel under. This vacuum action buries algae-covered gravel so it no longer can receive light. Without light, it will die.
Physical removal - Algae can be physically removed from the glass by wiping it with an aquarium sponge, algae magnet or scraper (razor blade scrapers work well.) Large rocks, driftwood, artificial plants, etc., can be treated outside the aquarium in a bucket containing a 10% bleach solution. It is important to rinse and dry them thoroughly before putting them back into the tank.
Natural Algae Control - Light is a key factor for algae growth. Fish only aquariums (aquariums without live plants) do not require lot of light compared to the intense light needed in order for live aquarium plants to flourish. For fish only aquariums, make sure there is enough light to see your fish; if you add bright light you will spend much time cleaning the glass and equipment.
Reduce Light Time - How long your light is turned on is another factor for algae growth. Generally, run lights 6 to 10 hours a day for fish only aquariums. Live planted aquariums require light from 8 to 12 hours each day. To control excess algae growth in a fish only aquarium simply shorten the number of hours the lights remain on.
Appliance Timers - An appliance timer is great for turning aquarium lights on and off at specified times. A timer removes human error so that the lights are not left on when you are out all night partying or fall asleep on the couch!
Live Controllers - There are several varieties of fish that eat algae. A few of the best choices are Otocincluss, Siamensis and Plecostomus. Otocincluss are great for small aquariums as they grow to only to 2 inches in length. The Siamensis is another great choice - especially for live planted tanks. One of the most popular algae eaters is the plecostomus (pleco for short.) The plecos seen most often for sale in pet and aquarium stores can grow over a foot long. A better choice for most is a clown or albino Bushy Nose Plecostomus as these fish grow to a mere four and four and a half inches long, respectively.
Chemical Treatment - There are several commercial algaecides which are safe for fish. If you keep live plants, read algaecide labels and follow directions carefully. Some algaecides can be harmful to live plants.

A final tip is to not to overfeed your fish. Excess food is not only bad for the health of your fish, it is also broken down by good bacteria, becoming a source of food for algae.

Following these tips will keep your aquarium looking beautiful for longer times between cleanings.

For more expert tips and advice on setting up, keeping and maintaining a freshwater aquarium, and much more, click here http://thenewfreshwateraquarium.com/

Laurren Schmoyer owned one of the largest aquarium stores on the East Coast for over 25 years. He also owned an aquarium service company for over 28 years. He has spent many years teaching and training customers the experts' way to keep all types of aquariums healthy and thriving for years.

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Choosing The Best Filter For Your Freshwater Aquarium

There are filters being sold right now that will KILL countless fish over time! This is a bold however a true statement. The fish-killing filters are missing a key component. Let's look at the most popular types available along with the key elements that will ensure complete filtration.

There are several types of filters that can be used with freshwater fish. The most common are hang-on-the-back or power filters, canister and wet-dry or trickle filters. Most new fish hobbyists start with hang-on types because they are inexpensive and most will work in both salt and freshwater. A power filter hangs on the back of an aquarium; a small pump pulls water up through an intake (siphon) tube and into a plastic box where it is then directed through a cartridge, sponge or special media and finally spills back into the aquarium.

In this case, size does matter: the aquarium size dictates what size filter to use. Choose one with a flow rate of 6 to 8 times the number of gallons of the aquarium.

It is critical that the water creates ripples on the surface water as it is returned to the aquarium because the top 1/16" is where gas exchange takes place. So, for the water to get oxygenated and CO2 to be released there needs to be surface movement (this is true unless oxygenation takes place in the filter.)

Before looking at other types of filters let's look at the three types of filtration: mechanical, biological, and chemical. Mechanical filtration is made up of a floss cartridge, pad or sponge. Mechanical media traps large particulate matter. The biological portion is made of ceramic rings, plastic bio balls, sponges, or fiber wheels. Biological media provides surfaces for good bacteria growth. These bacteria break down fish waste and other organic nutrients. Chemical filtration can be achieved through a good grade of activated carbon which adsorbs dissolved organics to reduce odors and removes yellow color from the water.

When choosing a filter you will find several manufacturers which do not offer biological media. Good bacteria (which break down the fish waste) will grow on any surface area where there is water, food and oxygen. The challenge is this: surface areas such as artificial plants and decorations are removed and cleaned when water is change, killing life-preserving bacteria. There must be a place provided where a huge colony of good bacteria can live, grow, and are not removed each time the tank is cleaned. Adding biological media to handle a well stocked tank is a must. So many hobbyists unknowingly sign a death sentence for their fish just by purchasing a filter that does not contain biological media.

Canister filters come in a variety of different sizes and are sold according to their flow rates. A canister generally sits in a stand below an aquarium and allows aquariums to sit closer to a wall. (Hang-on filters normally space the aquarium and stand several inches away from the wall.) Canisters are also designed to hold more media than hang-on styles. Square or cylindrical in shape, a canister will have two flexible tubes attached to its lid. One tube takes water from the aquarium, the other piece of tubing channels water back into the aquarium.

Each manufacturer makes canister filters a little differently, but they all work basically the same way. Once the water enters the plastic filtering tank, it is channeled through a series of trays or containers which hold various types of media. After the water passes through the media and is pumped back to the tank through the return tube. The clean water is either forced through a spray bar or a return with a deflector. Canister filters are extremely quiet.

A wet/dry or trickle filter provides mechanical and biological with the option to add chemical filtration. A Wet/Dry can be constructed out of glass or plastic and is generally placed in a stand under the aquarium. There are many different designs but they all work on basically the same principle. Water from the aquarium goes through the mechanical filter media and then falls onto a tray with holes. These holes spread the water out evenly, allowing for a shower effect below as the water drops onto the bio media. Bio-media is kept above the few inches of clean water using a grate. Once the water flows over the bio-media it is collected in the bottom area known as the sump. Keeping the bio media chamber above the water level provides an environment high in oxygen that is extremely beneficial to good bacteria and enables the filter to efficiently remove biological wastes.

The sump is where water is stored and used to keep the aquarium full. If the sump is large enough it can house a heater and a return pump. Most wet/dry filters also have compartments where chemical adsorbing media such as carbon can be placed.

The key to becoming a successful hobbyist is to choose a filter that provides plenty of water flow to create a never ending supply of oxygen for the fish. It also MUST provide all three types of filtration: mechanical, biological, and chemical.

For more expert tips and advice on selecting equipment for setting up an aquarium, choosing healthy fish, keeping and maintaining a freshwater aquarium, and much more, click here http://thenewfreshwateraquarium.com/

Laurren Schmoyer owned one of the largest aquarium stores on the East Coast for over 25 years. He also owned an aquarium service company for over 28 years. He has spent many years teaching and training customers the experts' way to keep all types of aquariums healthy and thriving for years.

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Saltwater Aquarium - How To Clean A Saltwater Aquarium

Introduction

If you have a saltwater aquarium on even a freshwater aquarium, it will need to be cleaned. The ocean, where your saltwater fish came from, is considered an open system and the tides and currents keep the water clean. But when you place your fish in an aquarium, you are putting them in a closed-system that you have to clean.

Your cleaning will remove waste from uneaten food and the waste generated by your fish. The cleaning will also remove water that you will replace with new water reducing any contaminants you have in your aquarium, such as nitrates.

Frequency Of Cleaning

Most Pros recommend cleaning at least 10% of your tank every two weeks. I perform this operation on my aquarium every week to keep my tank extra clean for my fish.

Equipment Needed

To clean your aquarium you will need several buckets. I have a 75-gallon aquarium and replace ten gallons every week. So I needed two five-gallon buckets to collect the waste water and two five-gallon buckets to allow for replacement water.

You will also need a siphon to clean the debris from the substrate and remove the water. These are relatively inexpensive and easy to operate.

First Step

The first thing you need to do is to unplug your filters and the heaters. As you remove the debris and water from the aquarium, the water level will drop and the filters will lose suction and quit operating. The drop in water level will also expose the heaters elements that could burn out.

I have mine plugged into a dual outlet plug so I de-energize both at the same time with one easy move.

Second Step

With the filters and heater unplugged, you can start siphoning the water. Place the suction end of the siphon below the substrate and the discharge end of the siphon in an empty bucket.

Start the siphon and move the siphon around beneath the substrate removing the debris and water.

Third Step

After removing 10% of the water and removing the debris put your replacement water in. Insure the replacement water has been de-chlorinated and that the specific gravity is between 1.020 and 1.025.

Also ensure the water temperature and pH are about the same if not just like what you have in your aquarium now.

Forth Step

After adding the replacement water you can re-energize the filters and the heaters.

Conclusion

Keeping your aquarium clean is a must. You should remove the debris and replace 10% of the water at least every two weeks.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Saltwater Aquarium - Why You Need a Hydrometer For A Saltwater Aquarium

Introduction

As you well know the major difference between a freshwater aquarium and a saltwater aquarium is the salt you add to the water to keep your fish alive. So how do you know you have the right amount of salt in your aquarium?

Salt Content

If you operate a saltwater aquarium, congratulations, they are one of the most beautiful pieces of decor you can add to your home, office or business. But you need to know how to maintain your aquarium, especially the salt water content of your tank.

The amount of salt content varies depending on the type of tank you keep. For the basic saltwater tank Pros will keep the specific gravity at their tank at 1.020 to 1.025. Reef tanks are kept by most people in a range of 1.023 to 1.026.

For the optimum amount of salt you need for your aquarium, do some research and find out what the salt content is where your fish or coral come from.

Specific Gravity

I made mention of measuring the salt content of your tank by using specific gravity. Specific gravity is the measurement of the density of water compare to pure water at a specific temperature and pressure.

You can measure the salinity of your aquarium's water by determining its specific gravity by a device called a hydrometer.

Hydrometer

A hydrometer is a must for your saltwater aquarium. It will measure the specific gravity of your aquariums water providing you with information on how much salt you have in your aquarium.

Though not a direct measurement of salt content, it does measure the density of the water that can be related to the amount of salt in your aquarium.

Using a hydrometer to measure the salinity of your aquarium is a lot easier and cheaper than other methods available to measure salt content in your aquarium. Other methods to measure salt content in water include such things as using electrodes (expensive) or boiling a sample of your water down (complex).

Using a hydrometer is accurate and cheaper.

Conclusion

If you own a saltwater aquarium, you will need to have a hydrometer as part of your equipment to successfully keep your tank. You will need this to easily and cheaply measure the salinity of your tank.

There are other methods to measure salinity, but the use of a hydrometer is a lot easier, cheaper and accurate.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. His web site has information on keeping salt water aquariums so if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium go to his site http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Why Breeding Bettas Is a Bad Idea: Tons of Things to Consider

Thinking of breeding bettas for the first time? Take care. You might want to think this over a thousand times before finally embarking on this new phase in betta fish care, even though that thousand times stuff sounds a bit silly. Still breeding betta fish is not as easy as keeping and taking care of a solitary betta, if you find it an easy thing at all. For sure it's a far sight from raising guppies, who successfully pop out little ones faster than rabbits, with little trouble.

So ask yourself this - are you really ready, willing and able to devote the time required to care for betta fish and their brood? Because breeding bettas is not that easy. I mean it may not be all that tough once you've got all the things needed and you already know how to go about it step by step. But it takes time and proper timing so all your effort, time, and money spent won't just go to waste.

All of which is to say it may not be such a great idea to breed bettas especially if you think you're not ready for it since there are a lot of things you need to consider. And I mean seriously consider. To cover the basics here are the four C's of betta breeding.

C #1: Choosing the Betta Parents
First, genes matter. You need to carefully select your breeding pair since this is obviously the key to producing colorful and vibrant offspring. Experience matters too. As does age. Your fish should be sexually mature and most bettas won't reach such maturity until they are at least four months old. If you're not sure how old the betta is, then judge it by the size and make sure it's grown beyond 5 inches. You'll also know the male betta is getting there if it regularly builds bubble nests and flares its fins in the presence of the opposite sex. On the other hand, you'll know the female betta is breeding-ready if she displays a fat belly and a white spot is showing on her abdomen. In some females, vertical stripes may also appear. Also take note that breeding a male and female betta from a common parent is not a great idea since such a pairing could result to genetically defective offspring.

C #2: Conditioning the Bettas
Bettas have to be conditioned to withstand the rigors of breeding. That's the second C. Basically toxin levels should be kept in check and a temperature range of 76-82 degrees should be maintained. But the key is to feed your breeding pair a high protein diet because they would obviously need to store up all the energy they can given how exhausting spawning is. To insure success feeding them nutrient rich live or frozen foods is highly recommended. It's usually a good idea to increase the amount of food fed as well.

C #3: Creating the Ideal Breeding Tank Set Up
Clearly you can't breed two bettas inside a community tank. Aside from being stressful you're not giving them any privacy. So you need to set up a separate tank to be used for breeding. The tank size should be right sized and shaped. In other words not too narrow and not too wide. Also, you want the water level to be a little on the shallow side so the fry won't have a hard time swimming vertically once they hatch.

The challenge here is to introduce the male and female without any deaths in the family. Some breeders use a divided tank set up so the two bettas can have the chance to get to know each other without risk of a misunderstanding which could result in injuries. Others also put the male betta in the tank first. And then the female is introduced in a separate bowl or a glass chimney (from an oil lamp). After their initial courting rituals would suggest a successful union the female is then released for the consummation of the relationship.

C# 4: Caring For The Fry
The last C is for fry care. You have to keep in mind that once the female betta releases her eggs her role is over. She should be taken out of the tank or may well go cannibal on you and eat the fry. This isn't malicious or anything. It's just that so much energy has been spent so it's just normal for the female to become extremely hungry. So much for maternal instinct, huh?

Now at this point the biggest challenge with breeding bettas commences. That is taking care of the fry. Think of it. Maybe 300 hungry mouths to feed. You need to feed them with the right sized food (think teeny tiny) and set the water temp at 80 degrees. True to their nature, the diminutive males become prone to territorial disputes in next to no time. Which means you need to prepare, heat, and maintain individual containers for them. Do you have the means to provide up to 150 jars for your growing male fry?

Hopefully it's dawning on you that this breeding thing may not be such a hot idea after all. Or at least it's one that needs careful planning and consideration - and we didn't even get into culling or what you're going to do with 100 (plus) adult bettas. Which is to say thinking it over a thousand times doesn't seem so silly now does it?

For more information about topics like what do betta fish eat, what betta diseases they are prone to and other useful betta fish care info, why not visit http://www.better-bettas.com? That site is just what you are looking for when it comes to helpful advice and useful tips about raising betta splendens.

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The Controversy About Betta Fish and Vases

Ever notice that many modern stylish homes are into betta fish keeping? And who wouldn't be impressed by seeing such a trendy decorating element? Which if done right can make for a stunning display of living color that's a great compliment to any decor.

Only problem is some of these would be betta keepers put the diminutive Siamese fighting fish in peace lily vases. What's not to like? The elegant peace lily plant, the splashy betta fish, and the glittering gems on the bottom of the vase - you could say it must be the perfect combination. Or is it?

Now this idea of suitability is something worth exploring because we tend to get mixed reviews on whether betta fish and vases are a good match. Without taking sides we'll lay out four issues that jump out at you and then it's for you to decide as to whether this is suitable for fish like this or not.

Issue #1: Confining spaces or is that all there is?
As you know, when it comes to bettas the larger the tank the better. Vases and bowls are too small for most to swim around happily. Not that you can actually see them smiling but you will notice that they become surprisingly active when placed in a larger tank. Does small space stress them out? Perhaps. Especially when some would insist that the ideal tank size for a healthy betta fish set up is a 5 gallon tank at the least. Now if you could secure a vase with such capacity then you might be able to pull it off successfully. Otherwise, it might be a bit iffy.

Issue #2: The water's fine - or is it?
When you really push the issue of placing bettas in vases, well you should at least be prepared for the worst possible scenario in terms of its water condition. Two come to mind. Number 1 is temperature. These guys thrive in warm temperatures which is why installing a heater in any tank housing them is a must. Unfortunately, it is impossible to install a heater in a tiny bowl much less a narrow necked vase. Number 2 is toxins. When you have a small container, pretty much there will be a quicker buildup of ammonia and other toxins in the water there inside the vase. So don't be surprised if your betta gets sick out of the blue due in large part to questionable water conditions.

Issue #3: What's left to breathe?
Bettas are endowed with specialized breathing organs that allow them to breathe atmospheric air, basically the same air which we humans breathe. Now allowing them to breathe such air is very important for them to thrive. Otherwise, why would they be having such body part in the first place? And seeing a peace lily plant being inserted into the vase, how then is this really optimal when it comes to air for them to breathe?

Issue #4: What's for dinner?
The guy at the pet store selling you on the idea of a betta in a vase would most likely say it's okay not to give any food directly since the roots of the peace lily plant are enough to satisfy their appetite. Baloney! Fighting fish are carnivores. They eat meat. And the last time I checked, the roots of plant are still not found under the category of "meat."

However, despite these issues there are still some who insist that keeping bettas in a vase may in fact be feasible. Some have devised a way to punch a hole through the planting tray to allow air to pass through to supply more surface oxygen. Others would just lift the plant whenever they feed them betta pellets and live food as well as during water changes. But come on. Who is willing to commit to going through this much hassle when you can easily get a low maintenance set up?

Taking a look at these issues, certainly any sensible person could say that vases are far from ideal for bettas. Basically if you want your pet to achieve a lifespan that can last for years, then you would have to provide them with enough space to roam around, complete with adequate nutrition as well as the best water quality they can get. But like was said. It's up to you to decide if something less than that is the humane thing to do or not.

For answers to questions about keeping female or male bettas you might want to visit http://www.better-bettas.com. Many find that site to be laden with helpful advice and tips useful for both novice and intermediate betta keepers alike.

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Saltwater Aquarium - How Specific Gravity Measures Your Tanks Salinity

Introduction

If you operate a saltwater aquarium or are thinking about it, then you know the importance of keeping the proper salt content. Most Aquarist keep their salt content in the range of 1.020 to 1.025 by measuring the specific gravity of the water in their aquarium. So how does this measure the salt content in your aquarium?

Specific Gravity

Specific gravity measures the density of a liquid as compared to the density of pure water at 3.989 degrees centigrade. At this temperature density of pure water is 1 gm/cm3. Anything with a measurement greater than one is denser than pure water. If the measurement is less than one then it not as dense as pure water.

Most liquids will be measured for density by using a hydrometer, which is calibrated to compare pure water to the liquid you are measuring. Most Aquarist use a hydrometer to measure the salt content of their saltwater aquarium.

So how can a hydrometer measure the salt content of an aquarium?

Specific Gravity And Salt Content

Salt content of your aquarium can be measured in several ways but most of these ways are complex or expensive. The easiest way that Aquarist use to measure salt content of their aquarium is by using a hydrometer which measures indirectly the amount of salt in their aquarium.

As you may know this measurement and salinity are not the same. Specific gravity refers to the density of water and is actually a ratio of the unit being measured to that of deionized water, so it has no units. Salinity is the weight of salt in the water usually measured in parts per thousand (ppt).

If you are using and you should be using pure water in your aquarium, the specific gravity will be one. With this pure water in a bucket, add premixed salt to the water. This will start to raise the specific gravity and you want it at 1.020 to 1.025 before you add the water to the tank. Since you used pure water, the only thing that will increase the specific gravity of your water is the salt you are adding.

By using a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity of your aquarium, you are indirectly measuring the salinity of your aquarium.

Conclusion

Most Aquarist who operate a saltwater aquarium will use a hydrometer to measure the salinity of their aquarium. This measurement is an indirect method to measure the salinity of your aquarium.

It is an accurate method provided you use pure or deionized water and is much cheaper and not as complex as other methods you can use.

J.W. Chase is an Aquarist who has successfully been keeping both fresh and saltwater aquariums for over 35 years. He has extensive knowledge on how to manage an aquarium, keeping all his fish healthy and smiling. Check out his web site on keeping salt water aquariums if you want more tips, strategies and secrets on how to manage a saltwater aquarium http://homesaltwateraquariums.blogspot.com.

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Ramshorn Snails - Are They Good Or Bad For Your Aquarium?

Introduction

Ramshorn snails are one of the most popular types of snails found in freshwater aquariums today. But they are not wanted by some Aquarists while others welcome them with open arms.

So why the difference between the two groups? To make things perfectly clear, I am on the side of the Aquarist who welcome Ramshorn snails with open arms.

The Pros On Having Ramshorn Snails

There are several benefits for having Ramshorn snails in your aquarium. The biggest benefit I have from having these snails in my aquarium is that they help keep the nitrates down. They do this by eating up the items that can produce nitrates, such as excess food waste, plants and fish.

They also eat the algae in the aquarium keeping the tank clean.

Another benefit to having Ramshorn snails is there is little maintenance involved in raising them. They essentially take care of themselves.

How To Obtain Them

It is easy to obtain these snails for your aquarium. Some aquariums will have them in with their plants that they sell. This is how I introduced them to my aquarium.

Just rinsing off the plants before you put them in your aquarium will not remove all the eggs or snails. So if you buy your plants from these places you certainly will put Ramshoad snails in your aquarium.

The Cons Of Having Ramshorn Snails

Being hermaphroditic, it does not matter what sex the snails are they will have baby snails. Hermaphroditic means that the snail has both sexes, male and female, so can reproduce individually.

So without proper controls, the Ramshorn snail is very prolific and can soon take over an aquarium.

Another reason they are not welcomed in aquariums is the risk of infecting the inhabitants of your tank. The red Ramshorn has been known to carry a parasite that can infect your tank. Fortunately the red Ramshorn is not as dominate as the brown or black Ramshorn.

Ramshorn snails may also eat certain types of aquatic plants.

Removing Them

The best way to remove them is to not to introduce them in the first place. Since they are introduced with new plants, soaking your plants in a chemical bath of potassium permanganate for at least 15 minutes will remove the snails and their eggs. Be sure to rinse your plants before putting them in your aquarium after the chemical bath.

To remove these snails from your tank you can put in predators that eat these snails such as gouramis and loaches.

Another method to keep them in check or remove eliminate them is by your weekly cleaning of the debris in the substrate or simply pick them off the side of your tank.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping aquariums for over 35 years. Over 75% of people who start aquariums fail in the first month for lack of knowledge. If you want more information on how to keep an aquarium, go to his web site and download a free eBook on "15 Tips On Building And Maintaining An Aquarium" at http://www.squidoo.com/homefreshwateraquariums.

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Freshwater Aquarium - Prevention and Removal Of Snails

Introduction

When I first developed my 75-gallon aquarium, I did not want to put snails in my tank because I did not know much abut them and I heard that they can take over a freshwater aquarium.

I was surprised about two months after I had stocked my tank I found a snail crawling up the side of the aquariums glass. I had been very careful to wash everything before I put anything in my aquarium including live plants.

Where My Snails Came From

I did some investigative work on tracing the source of my snails. Since the best source of my snails was from the live plants I placed in the tank, I started there. I bought most of my plants from a pet store that guarantees the plants were snail free. Plus I had always rinsed my plants.

I then remembered I did buy some plants from another store and when I was there I saw the little bastards in the tank where they kept the live plants they sell. But why did my rinsing of the plants before I put the them in the tank not prevent their introduction?

Preventing Snails

After some research I found that just rinsing the plants was not enough to keep the snails out of your tank. More than likely I introduced the eggs of the snail when I put the plants in.

What I needed to do to keep the snails and their eggs out was to soak the plants in a snail killing chemical and then rinse the plants with water. Potassium permanganate is a popular chemical sold in many pet stores that is used in the eradication of snails and snail eggs.

The directions are simple, soak the plant in this solution for at least 15 minutes and then ensure you thoroughly rinse your plant before placing it in the aquarium.

Removing Snails

There are chemicals you can place in the aquarium to remove the snails. But I did not want to jeopardize my fish. Then I found that Gourami like to eat the snails.

I have three Kissing Gourami and three Blue Gourami in my aquarium. So I decided to leave the snails in and allow my fish to have a different food source.

Plus when I find a snail climbing up the side of the aquarium, I will remove it from the tank. They are also removed when I clean my tank with my siphon vacuum cleaner

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping aquariums for over 35 years. Over 75% of people who start aquariums fail in the first month for lack of knowledge. If you want more information on how to keep an aquarium, go to his web site and download a free eBook on "15 Tips On Building And Maintaining An Aquarium" at http://www.squidoo.com/homefreshwateraquariums.

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Freshwater Aquarium - Snails For Your Freshwater Aquarium

Introduction

Aquarium snails are a good way to control algae and even nitrites in your aquarium. So what type of snail is good for your freshwater aquarium.

There are many different types of freshwater snails to choose from. So do your research well to obtain the right snail for your aquarium. Here are some of the attributes you will want to know:

How big will the snail grow?What is their reproduction rate?What do they eat?

Ramshorn Snail - This is one of the most common snails found in freshwater aquariums today. Some Aquarist consider these pests yet others consider them one of the snails you need for your aquarium.

Here are the attributes:

Size - These snails are small and can grow up to a length of 1 cm.
Reproduction Rate - These snails are considered hermaphroditic, so you only need one to start a colony. Because of their reproduction rate, some Aquarist considered them pests if they are not controlled.
Food - The Ramshorn snail is an excellent janitor for your aquarium. They will devour algae, excess food, dead plants and dead fish. By performing this duty they help keep your water clean and your nitrates under control.

Nertite Snail - These snails can survive in almost any type of water from saltwater to brackish to freshwater. There many different types of Nertite snail and it all depends on the coloring you want.

Here are their attributes;

Size - Like the Ramshorn, these snails are also small and can grow up to one cm in size.
Reproductive Rate - If kept in freshwater aquariums the reproductive rate of this type of snail is next to zero. But if you do want to attempt breeding them, unlike Ramshorn snails you will need at least one male and one female.
Food - These little fellows will do a good job of eating the algae that accumulates in your tank. You may want to periodically feed them algae wafers.

Mystery Snail - Mystery snails are related to the Apple snail. There are a few theories on why they are called Mystery snails. One theory is they do not know why they lay their eggs above the water line when all other snails lay their eggs below the water line. Another thought is that it is a mystery why they are called mystery snails.

Here are their attributes:

Size - This is one of the larger freshwater snails who can grow to a size of 3 cm.
Reproductive Rate - Their reproductive rate is not as fast as Ramshorn snails because you will need both a female and male snail to have reproduction.
Food - These are also good janitors for your aquarium for they will eat algae, dead or decaying plants and excess fish food in the substrate.

There is also the Apple snail that some people like in their aquarium. Stay away from these because they can cause infestations, like in Southeast Asia, if released to the wild. In fact some states do not allow them to be sold in their state.

J.W. Chase is an amateur Aquarist who has successfully been keeping aquariums for over 35 years. Over 75% of people who start aquariums fail in the first month for lack of knowledge. If you want more information on how to keep an aquarium, go to his web site and download a free eBook on "15 Tips On Building And Maintaining An Aquarium" at http://www.squidoo.com/homefreshwateraquariums.

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Three Questions You Should Ask About Java Ferns

Okay so picking the right plants for your betta tank doesn't have to be done with the same care you would give say picking a brain surgeon - or like your life depended on it. But this is still a decision worthy of a bit of brain sweat. Okay maybe just a little. Because the answer may lie in a plant you may never have heard of before. Java Ferns

That's right. The java fern could just be the best aquarium plant you have never heard of. It's an even better betta fish plant, if I'm allowed to so designate one. Plus it's a low maintenance bit of vegetation that should do just fine in your tank and bring with it several benefits.

Having been sold on the idea, as with all things betta, there are some questions you might wish to ask about this planted tank adventure that you might not think of so let me suggest a few. These are extracted from the list of less than obvious questions about java ferns you may not have thought of but should have.

Question #1: So why is this a good plant for bettas?

It's simple. Plants help to keep nitrate levels down. And low nitrate levels equate to better water quality which equates to healthier fish. Aside from that these ferns provide shelter or just a place for a betta to take a break. You may see your fish just resting on one of the leaves. Plus they add to the overall beauty of the tank you've got going there.

Question #2: Sounds good, then how do I get started with these?

Success with java ferns begins with cured driftwood. Given these plants are rhizome based, meaning the leaves and roots develop from one, you'll want to simply tie your plant to the driftwood with fishing line until its roots take hold. After a few weeks you can snip off the line as the plant should be firmly attached by then. The roots will spread across the face of the wood from there.

The big idea here is to avoid burying the rhizome in the gravel or substrate. That will doom your plant to a fairly quick death.

Question #3: Will I need to provide any kind of fertilization?

Good question with a short answer. It depends. That and everyone has their favorite one be it something like Leaf Zone or some other commercial aquarium plant food. Plus there are no hard and fast rules for feeding.

Here's the deal with the fertilizer. The amount your plants will need to thrive depends on how much light they get. To put it simply the more light the plants get the hungrier they'll be. So more light equates to higher fertilizer or food requirements. The trick is too much of this stuff and you'll only be encouraging unwanted algae growth. Too little and your plants may be stymied. Much like Goldilocks, the amount to use needs to be just right. Which you can only determine from firsthand experience.

Still the nice thing about java ferns is they'll make do with the light you provide. Taking anything from bright to low light and making the best of it.

Anyway those are three lesser, yet good to know questions about java fern that you might not have thought of asking off the top of your head. So now you know.

And should you want help with male or female betta fish a visit to http://www.better-bettas.com is just a click away. Many find it to be worthwhile to read all the helpful advice and tips about Siamese fighting fish that awaits novice and intermediate betta keepers alike.

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